Tuesday, April 13, 2010

EL TERREMOTO

When it happened, I wasn’t at my home in Baja, about 100 miles south of the epicenter. My Baja neighbors later reported a lot of rocking and rolling, but no damage other than minor cracks in the walls, and one of my windows slid off its runners. One Baja friend was on the toilet at the time and said it was a fun ride, until her husband, concerned when the rolling persisted, hollered at her to get the heck outside.

I’m trying to spend more and more time in Baja, but when the Mexicali quake hit, I’d been in the L.A. area a couple weeks, paying taxes, visiting friends and my 85-year old Mom, photographing wildflowers in the Carrizo Plain east of San Luis Obispo, and attempting to sleuth some strange health symptoms (stay tuned for another blog).

On Sunday, April 4, the day of the quake, I’d met my stepson Santiago at Barnes and Noble in Long Beach before taking him to lunch at California Pizza Kitchen, along with his son Miles, who’d just turned 15, and Miles’ 7-year old half-sister Miley [yes, the names are real!]. Santiago gets little sleep since he works nights for UPS. But each weekday he drives Miles and Miley to and from school, even though he doesn’t live with Mandy, their Mom and his ex-girlfriend. Santiago’s married to the truth, while Mandy inherited a gene for salesmanship. That, along with her glossy blond hair, dimpled smile and petite build would easily win her a seat in Congress if she were so inclined, though I doubt she’d survive the realities and brutalities of political office these days. Santiago and Mandy met in their early teens and were madly in love but fought like the Palestinians and Israelis. I know Santiago still loves her, but after 12 years of no détente, Mandy married Charles, and together they raised Miles then had Miley. A rift the size of one created by an earthquake had separated Santiago from Mandy a few years, but all’s smoothed over now.

I’d assumed as Miles reached his teens, the open affection between him and his Dad would abate. But my heart sang to see them warmly wrestling while in line at the bookstore. And Santiago seems to love Miley as if she were his own. In the restaurant, he tested her on spelling words and with happy exclamations, reached across the table to give her a high-five every time she got one right.

After lunch we drove to Santiago’s dad’s house. Victor and I met when I was 19, Santiago was a year old, and Santiago’s mother was no longer around. I left shortly thereafter for a six-month trip to Europe, and three years later moved away to start what would be many years of college, since I was working nearly full-time as well. So even though we were a pair for most of 17 years, Victor and I never officially married. Still, Santiago calls me his step-mom and sends me Mother’s Day cards every year thanking me for the years I was his Mom. And I feel blessed that we’re so close and that his Dad and I are friends again.

Oh, sorry! This blog was supposed to be about the earthquake, not family! As we walked into Victor’s house, an historic Craftsman he’s always improving with handcrafted French doors and unique painted wall designs, Victor shouted that we were having an earthquake, and Santiago pointed to the swinging chandelier. I ambled out to the backyard, waited until the rolling stopped, and immediately called my Mom. She’d been only about a mile from the epicenter of the Northridge quake in 1994, and when I’d arrived the next day to check on her, all the contents of her kitchen cabinets--ceramic dishes, drinking glasses, cereals, oils and honey--had avalanched onto the floor into a huge congealed mess. Mom’s a cool cookie, but to this day she stores gallon water bottles and flashlights throughout the house.

Mom had felt this one but less than we did, so I sat down at Victor’s computer. I'd already received an email from my friend Connie, who gets instant alerts about quakes over a certain magnitude. She’d received & forwarded emails of Mexicali rumblings over the past couple years, so the location of the quake was not a real surprise. I thought of the large, crowded city of Mexicali and was relieved that it was Easter Sunday and in the afternoon, when most Mexicalians would be home with families rather than on the roads or out shopping where shelves would be crumbling and canned goods tumbling. I hear later only two people were killed and 100 injured, although the quake’s magnitude was similar to the recent temblor in Haiti.

Several friends and my sister-in-law called and emailed during the afternoon to see if I was in Baja and if I was OK. And Santiago turned on the TV so we could view the damage. L.A. news stations showed the location on a map and were reporting on experiences around southern California and nothing from near or south of the border. Americans craving their proverbial 15-seconds of fame called in to the stations, distressed that they were evacuated from Disneyland, stuck in an elevator, or frightened when a hanging bird cage fell to the ground. With each account, Santiago and I exchanged glances of mock horror. One station repeatedly showed a video of water sloshing over the sides of a Long Beach swimming pool, and Santiago, his voice dripping with sarcasm, said, “Wow, that’s TERRIBLE!” I shuddered to think what these clueless folks would do when the Big One hits!

While Miley helped Victor ("Grampy") concoct fresh lemonade in the kitchen, we watched CNN’s interview with Lucy Jones, the earthquake guru from CalTech. "This is no surprise," she said. "We live in earthquake country. More surprising is how quiet it's been the last 15 years!" But we didn’t see CNN’s coverage, repeated later by a friend, reporting the quake’s location not in Baja south of Mexicali but in mainland Mexico at Guadalupe Victoria, a town with the same name of the town nearest the epicenter! And CNN also called it the “Southern California Earthquake.” Other stations said it had occurred “near the town of Baja.” I don’t want to say the big R word, but it was clear those we trust for reliable information [Fox News of course excluded!] are such isolationists they’re entirely ignorant of the geography of our nearest neighbor, just across the border from San Diego!

I thanked Miley as she handed me a tall cool glass of lemonade and asked Santiago “Why can’t they send a news helicopter to Calexico, in California just across the border from Mexicali? Why are they so focused on what Americans are feeling when there’s probably incredible damage just 200 miles south of us?” Santiago agreed and suggested we try the L.A. Mexican stations. Surely their regular progamming would be interrupted with news of such a large quake just across the border, where countless L.A. residents have friends or family?

But although nearly an hour had passed since the quake, more than sufficient time for videos and photos to flow in, one station was broadcasting Mexico’s version of American Idol, with a pudgy, cute 14-year old timidly singing into the microphone and flanked on either side by bikini dancers. On another station was Mexico’s version of Dancing with the Stars. What earthquake!?! No se preocupe! (no worries!). Is it any wonder why I adore the Mexican culture far more than the hype and tea-party-craziness of America? Ah but that's for another blog!

CNN finally reported on some damage the next day but still had only a few photos [http://www.cnn.com/video/#/video/world/2010/04/04/romo.lok.mexicali.quake.cnn?iref=allsearch]. Some friends of friends emailed about the damage and their driving experience along the road to San Felipe two days after the quake, with photos (see below). Another friend forwarded a Power Point presentation in Spanish that’s the first coverage I’ve seen showing extensive road damage, and fallen homes and buildings, and extensive flooding in some areas when agricultural ditches broke. I’ll forward you the presentation if you haven’t seen it; send me an email.





Friday, March 19, 2010

SAFE IN SAN FELIPE!

The Baja 250 road race was held in San Felipe, Baja California, Mexico, the weekend of March 13-14, 2010. Thousands of Americans descended on San Felipe, a 5-hour drive from San Diego, to participate in or to watch the race, which meandered for 250 km on existing dirt and paved roads through the Sierra San Felipe west of San Felipe. (I'm not a road racing buff, but you can read more about it if you like at http://bajasafari.blogspot.com/).

And guess what?!? THEY ALL HAD A GREAT TIME!!! There were no kidnappings or murders!! There was only one serious injury, but not due to Mexican drug cartels!

This is despite recent warnings from the U.S. State Department about travelling to Mexico due to the recent shootings of three US consulate workers in Juarez, across the border from El Paso. I don't mean to belittle that very sad, very unfortunate incident whatsoever, and until the U.S. legalizes marijuana, violence at the border will continue, but that's for another of my blogs.

But I have to laugh when my U.S. friends who've spent little time in Mexico ask me incredulously why I'm even THINKING of once again visiting my part-time Mexico home, as I've been doing about eight times a year since 2002. I spend up to three weeks at my beach house about 40 miles south of San Felipe. Perched on a bluff, where the desert meets the lovely Sea of Cortez, it's a great spot for viewing both sunrises and moonrises.

I have both Mexican and American friends who live nearby, permanently or part-time, and who have been travelling to and from the U.S. and San Felipe, and other parts of Mexico, for up to 50 years. I have NEVER heard a single story of an unfortunate occurrence from any of them! Not even "incidents with the Federales," the theme of stories, of which I'm skeptical, that are often repeated in the U.S. by weekend Mexico travellers. The "Federales" I've met have always been friendly and helpful, and they often ask me for help learning English. One time they were happy to show me the warm and safe home they were providing a for a stray dog and her puppies!

The incident in Juarez was unusual, as nearly all of border violence has been associated with someone in the wrong place at the wrong time, such as at a bar in downtown Tijuana, a known hotbed of drug cartels, at 2 a.m. Would you hang out in a bar near certain rough parts of Los Angeles or San Diego at 2 am? Of course not! Several murders and/or other crimes occur in Los Angeles and San Diego each and every night that you will NEVER hear about, no matter how many newspapers you read or television shows you watch. Yet just one violent event occurs south of the border, and the media becomes frantic!! Ah, my friends, but guess who owns the U.S. Media? U.S. Corporations, that's who. And guess who would much rather you spend your hard-earned dollars in the U.S. instead of in Mexico, where your dollars would buy much more?

Yes, there are stories, lots of stories, about violence in and near border towns, and even though most are embellished each time they are told, I strongly urge travellers to Mexico to drive during the day through border towns and to continue non-stop and on the main roads.

But the stories you won't likely hear repeated ARE THOSE ABOUT THE HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS OF PEOPLE WHO LIVE NEAR, OR VISIT, SAN FELIPE AND HAVE AN ABSOLUTELY FABULOUS TIME! I wouldn't be looking forward to living here full-time when I retire if I ever felt unsafe here. I never worry about threats to my life while walking alone on the beach here, night or day, or while driving or walking in San Felipe. But nearly each day on Los Angeles freeways, I have thanked my defensive driving for avoiding a serious accident with an idiot bent on getting home or to work 2 minutes early.

Americans love to repeat stories of unfortunate events; why pay money to see the latest horror movie if you can get freaked out at the company water cooler or reading a text message on your Blackberry? Come on, which are you most likely to hear or read: "Hey, did you hear Jimmy and his wife had a great time in San Felipe last weekend and spent only $300 the whole time?" or "Hey, did you hear that Jimmy had $300 stolen from his wallet [by another American, most likely] in Mexico last weekend?"

San Felipe is only a 7-hr drive from Los Angeles, a 5-hr drive from San Diego, and a 2-hr drive from Mexicali. Despite Mexicali's location on the border, drug trafficing there is minimal with none of the violence of Tijuana, Juarez and other Mexican towns that border the U.S. And San Felipe is far easier and cheaper to get to than Puerto Vallarta, Cancun or Cabo San Lucas, which are Amercan tourist traps. If you want a REAL taste of Mexico, it's much harder to find there than in the fishing village of San Felipe, which is so quaint it's still devoid of traffic signals.

Since the lifeblood of San Felipe is tourism, it hurts to see my Mexican friends suffering because the U.S. media and State Department label ALL OF MEXICO as dangerous, while it's only a tiny percentage (less than 1%) of the country, and only SOME of the border towns, where the problem exists. It's safe in San Felipe, and most other towns of interior Mexico. The air is clean, the skies and the sea are blue, and the people are friendly and always willing to help if you're in a bind or can't speak a word of Spanish.

If you're one of those ugly Americans who comes to Mexico to flagrantly ignore its laws, look down on its beautiful people, drive your noisy, polluting vehicles and make an overall drunken fool of yourself, please stay in the U.S. But if you're a peaceful soul curious about our lovely beaches, gorgeous sunrises, cactus gardens, fishing opportunities, wonderful restaurants (a great steak house, and an Italian, Japanese, and even a Basque restaurant now, in addition to excellent Mexican cuisine), bird life, and desert wildflowers (they're starting to bloom now, after our February rains), drive safely, but not fearfully, and come for a visit. You'll be glad you did.